Letter from Lorie, received 5/24/97

4/24/97 Thursday, 7:45 am (date started). Today the guys are fixing the sink and Darrell will go into town to get money from the bank. Some time today we will leave for Anaho Bay, which is around the corner from here. It will take about 3-4 hours to get there. We have been told by many locals and other cruisers that it is very beautiful there. I will be sad to leave Nuka Hiva, Tiohae Bay. We have met many nice peopie here. I am finally able to speak enough French to converse un petite peu (a little bit). I am almost thinking in French. By the time we get home I will be speaking French Tres bon (very well).

6:25 pm We are here in Anaho Bay. We pulled in at 5 o'clockish (Lorie language). Michael had just enough time to get on the radio and make his contacts for the day. It was a good night to talk. We could hear everyone very well. We all usually stop what we are doing to hear what is said. If you could imagine the old days (before my time), when everyone sat around the radio listening to the radio shows, that's what it's like. When provisioning I splurged on a can of “Zwan big francfort” made in Holland . I still had onions, potatoes and eggs from Mexico, so I made potato salad, and used the last of our bananas from the second banana stalk and made baked bananas in sweet milk. We made sure to stock up on fresh bread and baguettes before we left Tiohae. At 40 francs (40 cents) for a 6 inch thick x two feet long loaf, you can hardly pass them up. So we had a semi-American meal. As I sat outside, with a nice breeze blowing from the east, I began to think how great it was to be here. All the people and the different foods and the excellent scenery. Who could ask for anything more.

4/25 Friday. I washed clothes today and sent the boys ashore so I could get some peace.

4/26 Sat. We all went to shore and took a 3 hour hike along the beach, through a tropical trail, under bushes which have been hacked away, and over a ridge to the baie to the east of us known as Aah Tua Tua. This was a deserted beach with coral and white sandy beaches. Nice ! We ate lunch there. Darrell headed back early and Michael and I walked over to the north side of the beach where there were coconut palms growing. Ever since Michael discovered the coconut he has been crazy for the milk. He wanted to find one and break it open. on the way to the palm trees. We saw many wild boar tracks. Michael didn't care, he wanted a coconut (crazy!). We finally found a coconut. I'm sure most of you know that they don't look like the ones that you buy in the store. They have a thick husk and you have to cut it away. Michael forgot his knife so we became savages trying to break it open. We got it open though, after about half an hour. We managed to save 4-5 oz of the milk. I bored out half of the meat and ate that as we hiked back. Mr. (you don't call him scout for nothing) Michael got us lost! We took the wrong trail and ended up on someone's farm. We had to backtrack for about half an hour to get back to the beach . He still claims he knew exactly where we were. NOT!. We ended up back on the right trail. On the way back we talked to Padero and were able to arrange to buy some bananas. He wanted us to trade some wine, but we were told by the French Gendarmarie (police) not to trade alcohol, so we didn't. We ended up getting about 4 stalks with a total of about 200 bananas for 600 francs ($6.00). We got back to the place where Darrell had landed the dinghy and came to the boat. Michael wanted to walk along the beach and we had to go and pick up the rest of the bananas, so Michael and I went back in to the beach. We met Flo and earlier her husband Eric. They are from France . We than found that another boat from Taiohae Baie had came over to this baie. Gerrold and his family also from France.They brought a local Marquesen tatoo artist named Teddy with them from Taiohae Baie. We will hike to the baie to the west side of us tomorrow.

4/27 We had a big rainstorm last night. It was hard to sleep because the wind was gusting up to 25 mph and we are anchored next to the coral reef. The crew of Nerades decided to join us in the hike to Hatiheu. This was a long hike. Very steep hills and loose volcanic rocks every where. I had to be careful not to slip. Michael's back went out two days ago. He came on the hike, and moaned all the way. Fortunately , I was able to hike with Toni. We had a fun time talking girl talk. She told me some very interesting things. This is a beautifal baie . We visited with a local Marquesen woman named Loucenda. She had glassee (ice cream) for sale. Of course we bought some. We then saw Gerrold and his family. Loucenda took us to the church to visit. A simple church but very nice. There were garlands made of fresh wild tropical flowers that made the whole church smell wonderful. The altar was made of volcanic stone like a table and the baptismal table was big like a changing table basin. This too was made of stone. We all then went to an old ceremonial site where the natives used to have savage ceremonies. It was interesting to see, but I felt weird being in a place where people were sacrificed. Teddy, the Marquesen man that Gerrold brought climbed up a coconut tree and got some coconuts. We all drank the milk and ate the coconut meat . We then made the long and hard trek back to Anaho Baie. We had thunderstorms again at night, this time with more rain and wind. Needless to say no one slept.

4/28 We will go to Ua Pou for two days,then to Rangiroa for two weeks and then to Papeete for two days and Morea for a week or more for boat repairs. And then we don't know. This will take until the middle of June. We then need to decide where to go from there. Either to Australia to hold up for the cyclone season or try to push it and make it to Hawaii. Darrell wants to run from the storms and go to Hawaii this season. I would rather stop in Australia for the season.

We were invited to join the crew of Neredes (Rick,Toni,Roger),and Chimera (Sandy and Wally) and later Wood Wind (Gerrold,Ben,Julie,Teddie) for a beir (beer) at the only hotel on the baie. This hotel was really 4 grass huts and a main dining room. We all had fun talking. I really enjoyed talking to Sandy and Toni. Rick asked everyone if they would like to see if we could get the hotel to do a BBQ. The owner Juliette said that she could probably BBQ a goat and have all the trimmings on Wed. We were planning to leave today, but Darrell said we could stay. Good, it would be fun to have our own special BBQ.

4/29 Tuesday (day 72) I worked on the boat while Darrell and Mike went ashore to do laundry I am trying a new bread recipe. I want to get all my chores done so I can scavenge the beach for shells when the tide is out in the afternoon. Toni from Nereades called to me from her boat just after lunch. She wanted to go walking. I just put the bread in to cook so I quickly asked Michael to watch the bread while I hopped into Toni's dingy. We had a nice walk along the beach. We didn't find very many shells, but we had fun trying.

4/30 Wed Up late today We had more rain last night. Not as much as before, but enough to get wet. I ended up sleeping in the cocoon. Its so hot down there. I don't know what's worse, sleeping in the rain or sleeping in a hot sweat box. We all did chores today as the plan is to take off early Thursday morn. We have the feit (dinner celebration) this evening. I am looking forward to tasting goat. We were all ready two hours early. A bit excited I think. We went into shore early to meet Jean, a man that could adjust Michael's back. He would meet us after dinner and adjust Michael, and then again in the morning before we leave. The feit was great. The goat was delicious and was served with a red sauce almost like BBQ sauce (but better).We had taro root, breadfruit,Marquesen cevechi (very good too), bread, and deep fried bananas for dessert. Everything was great, especially the conversations with the other cruisers. I will miss the crew of Nerades and Chimera We have spent a great two weeks together. I will miss cruising. As Toni says, “once you've got the bug for cruising your life will never be the same". This I know for fact! Michael and I have already decided to try and get a boat of our own and come out again. It will be very hard to save and do it but it is worth it! I will never forget this time we have spent here on Nuku Hiva. It has been the greatest experience ever. After the feit, Sail Away, Neredes, Rupert from Gnare Wha, and Escapade sat a picnic table and passed around green coconuts filled with coconut milk ,fruit juice and brandy, and talked of our experiences. Jean didn't meet us, so we went back to the boat and went to sleep.

5/1 May day. Up early. Michael and Darrell went to shore to see if they could find Jean. I stayed behind to get ready to leave. I am sad today. I don't want to leave. I try to convince myself that it is better to leave now, but I'm not doing a good job of it. Rick came buy to wish me well and said that Toni would be by later. They are both aware of how I feel. I will try very hard not to get emotional. Jean came and massaged Michael's back. It felt better but not fixed. Michael asked Jean if he could come back later. He said at 5:00. Toni came by when Darrell was taking Jean back to shore. She said not to be sad because I will never know what things will come my way. "What a difference a day makes" is how she put it. Rick came back by with water exercises for Michael to do. It took Rick, Darrell and myself to get Michael rigged and in the water. Michael put on a BC and inflated it, and also put on a weight belt with 25 lb on his waist. He went in the water and let the weight pull down on his spine while the BC kept him afloat. We all kicked back until it was time to get Jean again. He is very nice. He massaged Michael's back and then visited until 8:00. We had fun talking broken French and for Jean broken English. I will truly miss this place !

2:35 am 5/2 We are ready to drop anchor. Just waiting for the moon to come up so we can see alittle better to pull the anchor. At last ,under a crescent moon we are off, Michael at the helm. We have a light westerly blowing. Unfortunatley that will change. As soon as we turn around the south end of the island we will be headed directly into the wind. A hard beat for four hours, and possibly the iron wind. We will see.

7:30 am Michael made our moming contact with Nereades with the sea conditions, as they are without an engine and want to sail back toTiahoe Baie on Sat. I said “Au Revoir” (goodbye) to Rick & Toni and asked her to tell Chimera's crew fairwell also.

8:45 am We are entering Tiahae Baie. Michael's back went out again. We will have to get him to the doctor today. Darrell doesn't want to leave for the Tuamoto's with Michael's back the way it is. Hopefully it will be o.k.

Well that's all for now. I win try to write again in a week, from the Tuamoto's . Michael and I LOVE and MISS You all! God bless and take care of each other.

P.S. please pass On Steve to Poole Family And Bonnie to Denise to Mom to Debbie to Gail to Samma and also to McLane and Luthern Church of Our Savior. Thanks bunches. See Ya soon! ! !KISSSSSSSSS the kids! XOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXO

(mailed on 5/2)